Sziget 2024's eclectic approach creates a playful sense of discovery

Sziget is the sort of bewitching festival that'll steal your heart. Words: Ali Shutler. Photos: Frances Beach.

Sziget really does feel like a wonderland. Sure, it's not the only festival to feature gorgeous circus performances or immersive light installations, but on Budapest's island of freedom, it's all so intertwined with the music that it's impossible not to get caught up in the fantasy of it all. You're never far away from a K-pop dance workshop, a BMX stunt show or a communal drum circle while giant steam-punk dinosaurs freak out those who've had a little too much to drink, patrolling the site accompanied by blasts of industrial rock.

It's a world away from mundane reality, but the culture-rich city, the winding ruin bars and the relaxing home comforts of Ibis hotels are only a short trip across the Danube if getting lost in the wilderness starts to get a bit much.

For a lot of the artists on the bill, it's their first time playing a gig in Hungary. If that wasn't nervy enough, the festival plays host to one of the most eclectic main stage lineups in Europe, so there's a shared sense of uncertainty ahead of almost every performance. This is amplified by a shared understanding from the crowd that there's absolutely no need to stand in the blistering heat until the act actually takes to the stage.

You can imagine the nervous whispers that take place backstage before showtime, but the likes of Becky Hill, Sam Smith, RAYE, Louis Tomlinson and Bebe Rexha turn that prickly energy into fierce determination as they all hit the stage with something to prove. Their sets quickly become moments of triumph as the ever-growing crowds fall head over heels in real-time. Rather than an abridged version of their usual show, each performance feels genuinely special.

Even bonafide festival legends like Stormzy get caught up in the giddy unpredictability of it all. "It doesn't matter if you don't know who I am or if you're into this type of music or not; we're all here for the same reason," he says, promising an unforgettable night. "If you give me a little bit of energy, I'll give you everything I've got," which seems like a fair deal.